West to East!

I planned my trip like this:
1. Prishtina - Istanbul (by plane 1st of march).
2. Istanbul (Haydarpasa) - Erzurum (by train), 1716 km - around 38 hours trip!
3. Erzurum - Istanbul (Haydarpasa) (by train again).
4. Istanbul - Prishtina (by plane, 14th of march).

Staturday, 1st of march 2008!

THE WEST!

Istanbul,



For the first time in my life I traveled by plane. It was stressful, but exciting. Stressful not in the meaning of fear, but in the meaning of where to go, what to do and stuff. I was excited because all this was new for me. Lately I haven't traveled much, and even when I traveled, it was either bus or train and mostly around Balkan countries. So here we go :)


The city had a great view from the airplane before we landed. For a moment I was distracted, talking to the guy next to me when the plane touched the ground and shut my mouth for some seconds. At once I didn't know what happened :) The biggest trouble was to find my luggage, but again I managed it asking some people from my plane and sometimes just following the flow. Ataturk Airport was way much bigger than Prishtina Airport.

I managed to meet my host Gulay (through www.couchsurfing.com) in Kadikoy. I found many hosts, but I chose her because she lived closer to Haydarpasa train station, where I had to take the train, which left quite early in the morning, to Erzurum (eastern Turkey). We met in front of Haldun Taner theatre and then took the bus to her home. Since Prishtina Airport, this was the first moment I felt completely relaxed. The first time I felt like in my family; her, her sister Gokce and her mother Ayten were really warm and nice to me. I had enough reasons to adopt new family for myself - and here we go, I have 2 more sisters and another mother :) Cool, isn't it?
Here is Ayten (mom), Gulay (right) and Gokce (down).

I really had good time in this family, talking about different things which sometimes went up to almost 4 AM. I must mention that Ayten's meals made me clean all the dishes I had in front of me. Once, Gulay offered me more but I said that, it`s my principle and also a rule in our culture not to leave any food in front of you; so if I finish the dish in front of me it doesn't mean I want more :)
- So you might not like the food, but because of your culture you have to finish it? - she said.
- Sorry I have no time to talk now, - I replied and turned my head down eating with appetite.
They laughed :)


Sunday, 2nd of march 2008!

The Turkish Communist Party organized meetings in some neighborhoods. Because of this, the police was all over and the urban traffic like buses and some ferries were shut down for some time. This changed my plans. I had to go and meet with Serdar (www.couchsurfing.com - CS)* in Macidiekoy and play basketball with some italians and a lithuanian guy. No basketball today :)

While I was thinking what to do, Didem sent me a message asking me what am I doing, and is it possible to meet today. I was writing the message when Cheri, a friend of mine from USA called me and asked me if I want to join her, her fiance and another guy to Prince's Islands - exactly Buyukada (which means the big island). I told Cheri that I`ll meet Didem and will come with her there.

I was wandering around Kadikoy and listening to the speech of the communist party. I agreed to meet Didem in front of Haldun Taner (the only place I knew) at 1:30 PM . I waited some 5 minutes when Gulay appeared in front of me. She just came back from her spanish classes.

After Didem arrived, we took quite a long walk to the neighborhood called Moda. Fancy neiborhood! I ate Tavuk Durum (chicken durum) and then left, because started to become chilly (we sat outside) => Didem (left) and Gulay (right).
We went to a bar and stayed there quite long, talking about almost everything, till evening.

We just said bye to Didem and I was taking some pictures when Gulay said:
- Want to go to Karakoy?
- Sure, why not!?

We were walking on the Galata bridge, when some guy in front of his restaurant insisted to take us inside for some free tea. Cool! Because it was chilly. Later we went to Taksim, and we met Cheri. She lives there with he fiance. It was all unplanned :) We had a nice evening, some appetizers and some drinks in front of us and outside Besiktas guys going crazy cause they won the match against Galatasaray and now leading the table. That's Cheri and Selcuk (left) and Gulay and me (right).

Monday, 3rd of march 2008!

I woke up early, as I wanted to see more of the touristic places in here. Gokce helped me to find the place where I could get the local bus or dolmus (mini bus). I took the bus from Kosyolu to Kadikoy and then the ferry-boat from there to Eminonu.
A turkish guy with Japanese origin (but you couldn't tell that) showed me how to find Sultan Ahmet Camii, Aya Sofya and Top Kapi Palace. He took me to the tram-metro tracks and just told me to follow them :)

I was going to see Sultan Ahmet mosque first but after I exchanged messages on the phone with my girlfriend I changed my mind. "Go to Top Kapi" - she wrote to me. Here we go!


























This guy was my tour guide in the palace. After we visited half of the palace, I lost him. He was always waiting us (the group of some tourists) outside until we are done with pictures and recording. One time I was a bit late taking more pictures and they left...when I went outside I didn't see them. I went to see many of the places where Sultan clothes, jewelery, crowns, etc. were stored, but not allowed to take pictures there.

I got bored and started to call all the people I knew there, but nobody answered. After some couple of minutes Cheri called me back and we met at Galata Kulesi (tower). We had a drink right beside the tower and later we went to a meal shop somewhere in Istiklal Caddesi (main street in Taksim), because I am used to eat a meal a day (usually lunch). We said bye to each other at Taksim Square where I took the bus back to Kosyolu. This picture was taken by Cheri just before we said bye.














I dropped off near the BP petrol station and walked slowly towards Gulay's home. I saw some kids near the school playing football, so I stopped to watch them a bit. I asked one of the guys if the play basketball and he replied that they have no ball, but invited me to play football. Why not :) They were good.
I agreed with them that I`ll just change my clothes and come back, but this time a basketball game. One of the guys named Yigit said he has a ball home and till I come back he'll take it. I went back at my host, talked to Gulay and her mother Ayten (she just came back from running).
I played basketball till it started to become dark, but other than football I really beat them badly :) We played 2 on 2 first and then 3 on 3 after some more guys came. Here is the picture with my team mate who was really good player, very good for his age and height. His name is Yigit :)




































I came back at my host, had a shower, perfect dinner and long long talk till 4 AM.


TO THE EAST!

Tuesday, 4th of march 2008!

I planned to get up early, pack my things slowly, exchange some money and buy some food for the train. I don't know how I turned off my alarm in the morning at 06:30. Luckily I woke up a bit after 7 o'clock, so still had time to catch my train, but had to rush a bit. The train departure was at 08:35.

It was sad to say goodbye to Ayten and Gokce, and I couldn't say bye to Gulay as she was sleeping (she said bye to me before she went to sleep, because she knew she will not make it to wake up).

I took the bus from Kosyolu to Kadikoy, and immediately I went to check for an exchange bureau or bank. All closed :(

Walked back to Haydarpasa, and asked one guy to help me find my train, but he told me to ask somebody else because he had no time. I was looking to see someone younger, who could speak some English, probably. There were two girls coming and I asked one of them. She told me that there is an exchange office in the station, and helped me find my train and my sleeping wagon.

Finally the train left, but a bit late. It was 09:15!
The cabin was for four people. I had to share it with one guy who was going to Erzincan. His name was Murat Kaya. Poor guy, had to make such a long trip to see his askim (girlfriend). In the next station another two men came. Ali Koc was going to Bilecik and the old man to Eskisehir. Ali was a military officer, very friendly and tried to talk to me all the time. He didn't speak any English, but we managed to understand each other somehow. He advised me to get some sleep until I reach Ankara because it's safer. After Ankara city, he warned me to be careful and not sleep because my bags could get stolen. During all the conversation, the old man and Murat were sleeping.

Ali seemed trustful person to me. I left my bags with him when I went to eat at the Yemekli Vagon (Food Wagon). He dropped off in Bilecik :)

The old man left in Eskisehir, so I remained with Murat only. He seemed to be nice guy, but he didn't speak a single English word - not even YES and NO!!!

All the people in that wagon were friendly and they wanted to talk to me. I must mention one man from Istanbul who was going to Sivas who was really helpful. He spoke a little english and he showed me Ataturk wagon in Anakaray Metro.

Wednesday, 5th of march 2008!

Still in the train. Most of the day I spent reading, writing and talking to different people in the Food wagon. I spent quite a lot of time with the waiter, whose name was Erhan. He was kind of bored (imagine working 38 hours non stop!) and he offered me water and tea free of charge. While I was sitting and talking to Erhan, another guy from Ankara (his name was Orhan Yaman) came and joined us. A 19 years old journalist working for Adem Media in Ankara, and together with his cameraman and another girl they were going to Erzincan.

Some time before we arrived in Erzincan I went to my cabin and I took all my luggage and went to the food wagon again. Murat was sleeping and he didn't hear me. When he woke up he came to the food wagon, yellow on his face and breathing fast.
-Çanta....(and something else in turkish I don't know)! - he said trying to explain me that the luggage is not there.
-It`s here, - I pointed at my suitcase and my bag smiling telling him not to worry.
A proof he was a nice guy :)

I was hungry, but earlier I decided not to buy food in the food wagon restaurant anymore because it was expensive. I decided to wait till I arrive in Erzurum. I made this decision thinking that the train will arrive around 5:20 PM, even a bit later was OK. While talking to one conductor and the chief of the food wagon I got to know that there is no chance the train will arrive before 10 PM. Huh!

I called Erhan and asked me to suggest me something from the menu, whatever he thinks is good to try. He recommended me Çoban Kavurma (fried meat with vegetables and spices).

Çoban Kavurma + Mix salad + Fanta = mmmmmmm :)

The cook came and sat opposite to me while I was eating. He wanted to know if I like the food. Of course it was delicious. I told him that if he comes to Kosova to open a restaurant; if he cooks delicious food like this, he would earn a lot of money. It was funny that he considered it seriously and he asked me to look for a place for him, and he asked for my phone number. His name was Cevdet. I still have his phone number on my turkish phone card :D
- Ama yok saka (But no jokes)! - he said.
_ Yok, yok! -I replied but I couldn't stop laughing (which made him think I`m joking).

I just wanted to tell him how delicious the food is and I was not thinking of business!

As we were getting closer to Erzurum, I was asking everybody in there where are we now. I didn't want to miss Erzurum, as it was not the last station (the train was going around 6 hours further, to Kars). I was stressed about this because in many train stations I didn't know where we are unless I asked someone. There were no signs, no neon lights, nothing! I asked Erhan to let me know when we arrive in Erzurum. He didn't understand me although he spoke a bit of English, so I had to draw it for him to understand. He told me not to worry about it.

We talked for some time, played a game on my notebook (luckily he played that game before), helped him with the wheel barrel in the other wagons (he had to go once in a while in each wagon and ask people if they want tea or coffee). Here is Erhan pushing his wheel barrel in the last wagon and playing with me.

























To be continued....